ESS STEP #11
Remove engine drive belts.
56. It will make a lot more room for this step if you remove the radiator fan. There are two (2) wiring plugs, (1) x T20 Torx screw,
and one (1) snap rivet and the entire fan assembly slides straight up and out. This only applies to manual transmission cars.
The automatic has a fan bolted to the water pump.
57. You can remove the A/C belt by hand. Press straight down on the tensioner (the small center pulley) and you can slip the belt off.
58. Pop the dust cover off the main tensioner with a small screwdriver and then put a 8mm hex wrench into the pulley (Photo BN).
I used my jack handle as a leverage bar on the hex wrench, twisting clockwise, to release the belt tension and pull off the main belt. Some cars
may have a bolt inside the pulley instead. The process is the same.
ESS STEP #12 & #13
Install main bracket for supercharger.
install supercharger and support bracket.
59. Unbolt the two (2) x 16mm bolts for the alternator using a socket. The upper one is inside the idler pulley, remove the cover to get to it.
60. I installed the supercharger bracket alone (Photo BO), then found it easier to mount the compressor to the bracket first, then install both.
61. Mount the supercharger to the bracket with the supplied 38mm spacers and 6mm hex bolts (Photo BP). The 80mm hexagon bolt
(the one I am tightening in photo BO) has a 13mm nut on the back (Photo BQ). The small ESS-supplied rear support bracket mounts on this nut,
put this support bracket on now.
62. Install the supercharger and bracket to the engine using the ESS-supplied 8mm hex bolts and spacers into the alternator mounting points
we found in Step 59. The longer bolt goes in the upper hole. (Photo BR). Don't overtighten.
63. Remove the really long black 10mm bolt behind the oil filter and replace with ESS spacer and 6mm hex bolt to fasten rear support bracket
64. Attach the supercharger oil feed line installed in step 32 to the supercharger by removing the bolt from the supercharger with a 14mm
wrench. Remove the rubber hose spacer piece and throw it away. Place the oil line between the crush washers and reinstall into supercharger (Photo BT).
DO NOT overtighten this bolt, oil connections only need to be nice and snug, the washers will seal it (Photo BU).
65. Attach the oil drain line to the supercharger drain underneath and clamp. You can get to it through the space where the headlight
assembly used to be. I also zip-tied the oil drain hose to keep it so it always flows downhill to the oil pan.
66. Attach the lower air tube from the intercooler onto the supercharger outlet and clamp.
ESS STEP #14
Install sueprcharger pulley and engine drive belts.
67. Apply Loctite to the supplied four (4) x 5mm hex bolts (Photo BV) and attach the supercharger pulley (Photo BW).
UPDATE: The 6.5psi kit uses a 145mm diameter pulley and the 8psi kit uses a 140mm diameter pulley. Make sure you have the right one
(See very LAST two photos).
68. Make sure the new ESS idler pulleys are firmly attached to the bracket and install the supplied new drive belt. Route it from the water
pump over to the alternator, around the lower idler, up over the supercharger, around the second idler, down to the power steering pump, over to the
main crank pulley, around the factory tensioner, and back to the water pump.
69. Re-install the A/C belt the same was as you removed it. Make sure all the belts are on good and all ribs and pulleys lines up. If the belt
is off by even one rib, it can slip off.
ESS STEP #15
Install intake, mass air sensor (MAS), air filter, bypass valve, and oil breather hose.
70. Install the 90° intake elbow and pipe on the supercharger intake and tighten. Connect the breather hose extension to the
1" fitting right before the compressor inlet. You may want to cut this extension hose shorter to fit better. You may also want to cut off the
threaded stud on the strut tower with a grinding wheel or hack saw. It isn't used for anything, but it does make these steps easier with it gone.
71. Find the hard plastic hose from the front of the vacuum rail we installed earlier. This vacuum line fits into the orange
quick-connect right before the supercharger, just press it all the way in and it will snap-lock into place (Photo BX).
72. Install the short hose of the bypass valve assembly to the intake elbow and run the long end down to the fitting on the intercooler pipe.
You can see the bypass valve location in Photo BX as well.
73. Remove the MAF sensor from the factory airbox and attach it between the intake pipe and filter hose (Photo BY). It has an arrow on it that
shows airflow direction (towards the engine), but the harness connector should face towards the fender anyway. Connect the MAF harness wiring plug.
74. Adjust all hose connections to make sure you have no rubbing or contact with the fender, hood, etc and make sure everything is tightly
75. The large hard plastic hose mounted in the other quick-disconnect on the intake pipe is meant to attach to the large rubber hose
(brake booster/ICV hose)that was originally attached to the F-connector on the factory intake from step 20.
It supplies vacuum to the brake system. Use the clamp taped to the plastic hose to connect and fasten them together.
76. The vacuum line that we originally ran around the back of the engine during the vacuum rail install should have a T-fitting in it.
The shorter hose of the T fits onto the bypass valve. The longer end connects to the fuel pressure line from the F-connection we removed in step 20.
I added a 4-way fitting here so I could add a point to attach my boost gauge line (Photo BZ).
ESS STEP #16
Reinstall left front headlight and xenon relocation bracket if xenon lights are installed.
77. ESS says to move the Xenon igniter at this point. This is impossible on the Bi-Xenon headlamps. It is part of the housing. I had to
leave it in place, so I wrapped the intake hose in foam and tape at the contact point. If you don't have Bi-Xenons, remove the metal silver ignitor
housing and move it to the white plastic bumper guide bolt using the supplied bracket.
78. Reinstall the headlamp, it may be a tight fit, press hard and fasten the 8mm screws. Attach the trim underneath as well.
ESS STEP #17
Reinstall front bumper with covers.
79. Reinstall the plastic kidney grill cover. I trimmed the bottom half off to clear the intercooler (Photo CA).
80. Reinstall the brake ducts if you removed them. I trimmed my driver's duct a bit to allow more air to get to the K&N filter (Photos CB & CC).
81. Trim the undertray to clear the intercooler pipes (Photo CD) and reinstall.
82. On the ZHP M-tech II bumper, you can remove part of the lower grill to allow more air in (Photo CE).
83. Reattach the bumper, connect the foglight and horn wires, checking for clearances on the way. Check to make sure the fender liners
are snapped behind the bumper.
ESS STEP #18
Start the car and check for leaks.
84. Once the DME returns, reinstall it and attach all harness connections. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
85. Turn the key to ignition, but DON'T start it yet. The fuel pump will charge the fuel rail. Check for leaks. I had none.
86. If OK, start the car and let it idle. Check for any other leaks, oil supply, drain, dipstick, power steering, etc. I had none.
87. If OK, reinstall the engine covers over the fuel rail and radiator. I had a little rattle where the intake hose was rubbing the strut
tower, so I used double-sided tape to attach a foam block between them (Photo CF).
That's it! Check your fluid levels including power steering and engine oil. I had to add about 1/2 quart of engine oil and about 1/4 quart of power
steering fluid. Drive nicely for the first hundred or so miles to let everything break-in.
Check for leaks or loose connections often. Always use at least 91 octane gasoline and 93 if you can get it.