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Completed 11/11/2006

Install the 8psi Intercooled Lyhsolm-based Twin Screw supercharger system from ESS Tuning.

As on the earlier ESS VT and ESS ASA kit installs I recommend a fairly decent amount of mechanical knowledge and confidence with your skills before tackling this adventure. I did this *without* an install manual as it was a pre-production kit and the English manual was not completed as of yet. It is not any more difficult than the previous supercharger installs, it is just more intimidating.

     (ESS TUNING $7495.00)
1 - Quart Power Steering Fluid
     (AUTO PARTS STORE $2.99)
1 - Gallon Engine Coolant
     (AUTO PARTS STORE $5.99)
1 - Gallon Distilled Water
     (SUPERMARKET $0.99)

Assorted Flathead/Phillips Screwdrivers
Socket Wrench
6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm, and E45 Sockets
5mm and 6mm Allen Wrenches
T20, T25, T35, T40, T50 Torx Drivers
Diagonal/Wire Cutters
45-60psi Compressed Air source with Tire Fill Adapter (Schrader Valve)
Shop Towels
Bowl, cup, or Catch Pan

CAUTION: Please take the necessary precautions during this procedure. Make sure the car is cold, not cool or warm. You will be working with at least 3 engine fluids, not to mention the engine cylinder head, none of which stay cool during operation. Wear eye protection. Wear gloves if needed. Don't rush and don't force anything. It's good advice and I assume NO liability by you using these instructions. Let's begin!

PRE-PRODUCTION NOTES: Since I installed a pre-production kit, there are now a few changes to note for the retail kits. The biggest of these changes is the locations of the cooling hose attachments to the TS manifold are different. They have been relocated in the production units to re-route the hoses behind the manifold, under the airbox, to the front of the car. This is a great improvement with respect to installation ease. In my kit, I had to attach the hoses before installing the manifold and then route them behind the engine, over the headers, and down past the AC compressor to the front of the car. All shipping production units will have the better hose routing and I did my best to modify this DIY in a way to make it work here. ESS sent me some pictures of the hose routing and silicone throttle body hose on the production E46/Z4 kit and they are posted at the end of the install with YELLOW thumbnails. Be sure to look them over.

This is a picture of the parts that come with the TS2 system (Photo A).

1. Disconnect your negative (black) battery cable in the trunk with a 10mm socket and then WAIT at *least* 5 minutes (Photo B - Red Circle). This allows time for the discharge of any DME related circuitry/relays and complete DME shutdown.

2. Open the hood and find the "E-Box" located right in front of the driver next to the brake fluid reservoir. Remove the four (4) x T20 Torx screws (Photo C - Red Circles). Some cars will require a 5mm hex wrench. The box lid opens towards the fender and can be completely removed if you snap the hinges apart straight up. It sure made it easier for me.

3. Inside the "E-Box" you will find the DME. It has 5 *black* plugs attached to it (Photo D - Red Box). Rotate the locking tabs up and disconnect the plugs. There are two retaining tabs behind the DME, press these back and pull the DME straight up. It should come out pretty easily.

4. Send the DME back to ESS to get reprogrammed according to their instructions. If you send your DME internationally, don't forget to make sure you only value it at 20USD and include at least two pro-forma invoices with the package (both speed it's trip through international customs).


NOTE:The heat exchanger is not included on TS1 non-intercooled units, so you can skip these steps if you have the TS1.

5. Chock the rear wheels and jack up the front of the car using the factory jack blocks under the doors. Be sure to use jack stands to support it. This step just makes getting the bumper off a little easier. It is not mandatory.

6. Remove the plastic undertray under the engine by removing the two (2) or three (3) x push rivets (depending on bumper) with a small screwdriver or pliers and then the seven (7) x phillips-head lock screws. These are capture screws and will not fall out. (Photo E)

7. Removing the bumper is easier than I thought. Inside each front wheel well are 8mm nuts (Photo F). You only need to remove the one closest to the outside of the car on each side. You may have to pop the plastic fender liner out of the bumper when you remove it. You will see what I mean in a minute.

8. There are four (4) x 8mm screws under the bumper in front of each wheel well (2 screws on non-ZHP cars). These need to be removed as well.

9. Using a E45 Torx Socket on an 6-12" extension, find the two large circular holes under the bumper (Photo G) and go up inside to find the main bumper bolts. Remove both. They are long and may get caught on the bumper support once they are loose, but you can reach up inside the bumper and pull them out if you need to.

10. Using a buddy to support the bumper and slowly pull it straight forward away from the car (about 2") and disconnect the horns and foglight wiring (Photo H). This is where you can feel it possibly catch on the fender liners, just pop it out.

11. Remove the bumper and place it someplace safe, it can easily be scratched. This is what you will see once it is removed (Photo I).

12. Remove the air intake feed box sitting above the radiator. There are three (3) x push rivets on the radiator cover which can be removed with a small screwdriver and good fingers (Photo J). They are the same type as used in the engine undertray.

13. Remove the plastic air dam under the feed box (the piece that is normally behind the kidney grilles) by removing the 4 phillips-head snap screws. There are two on each side (Photo K).

14. The heat exchanger comes with the brackets attached but loosened for installation. There are also spacers included, but the bolts on my car were not super long so I did not install them. They may be required on automatic transmission equipped vehicles. Mount the heat exchanger to the lower bolts with the supplied 13mm lock nuts (Photo L). Tighten all bracket bolts (5mm hex bolt & 10mm nuts) to hold the heat exchanger in place (Photo L).

15. Connect the pre-attached hose from the water pump outlet to the nearest heat exchanger port and tighten with 7mm socket. The supplied water pump will be located in the space between the bumper and left front wheel. It MUST be at the lowest point in the system to keep a prime on the pump. (Photo M). Failure to do this may cause the intercooler system to not work.

16. Connect the longer of the two supplied coolant lines to the other heat exchanger port and tighten. The shorter line connects to the bottom of the pump. We will route these lines later on.


17. Remove the two (2) x 10mm bolts from the airbox (Photo N). Loosen the 6mm nut on the rear hose clamp of the MAF (Photo O). Disconnect the MAF wiring harness plug. Leave the MAF connected to the air box.

18. You can then pull the rear of the airbox up and out (Photo P). You will most likely pull the small secondary front air duct out with it, this is OK. Keep the airbox and MAF from getting damaged as you will need to reinstall it later.

19. Unplug the F-connection in the intake hose (Photo Q) and remove the hose clamps farther down (Photo R). Remove this section of intake hose, it is not reused. The F-connection has two hoses connected. The larger is the brake booster/ICV feed and the smaller is the fuel pressure regulator line.

21. I could not get to the hose clamps that hold the remaining hose elbow on the throttle body. My hands are just too big. I ended up cutting as much of the hose away as I could which let me get behind the throttle body and release the clamps on the body and the smaller idle control valve fitting above it (Photo S). Remove the hose and clamps. NOTE: You could probably leave this hose on until you pull the manifold out later.

22. Run the water pump coolant lines from the heat exchanger and pump we installed earlier under the headlamp, through the front support, and up under the airbox location. We will attach them to the new manifold later.

23. I connected the black pump ground wire to the 16mm bumper mount nut. Anywhere will work as long as you have a solid connection.

24. Crimp the long red wire onto the red power wire of the pump. Run this wire up to the DME E-box.

25. Inside the DME box, cut the excess red wire off and crimp the remaining wire to the fuse holder splice. Using the blue wire tap, connect the fuse splice to the main DME relay RED/WHITE wire as shown (Photo T).


26. We need to disconnect the positive crankcase vent (PCV) drain from the dipstick and cap it off with the ESS-supplied plugged hose. I found it easier to just remove the dipstick entirely. Follow the dipstick down and find the 13mm bolt on the dipstick itself (Photo U). Farther down, there are two hoses attached in clips to the dipstick. Work your hand down there and release them. The PCV drain hose is attached to the dipstick right before it enters the engine crankcase. This must be pulled off and the dipstick fitting capped with the ESS plug hose (Photo V). The disptick is tough to remove, but pull hard straight up and it will pop out. Remove the 13mm and pull the disptick from the car. It will pop out up of the crankcase. Keep an eye out for the O-ring at the base. It usually comes out with the dipstick, but if not, you need to be sure to get it out of the dipstick hole to reuse it.

27.The microfilter housing sits above the engine against the firewall. Remove the microfilter housing by twisting the 3 clips counterclockwise 1/4 turn (Photo W), remove the cover and the microfilter. Remove the four (4) x T25 Torx screws in the rear of the housing (Photo X). They are capture screws and will stay with the housing. Disconnect the wire channel on the front of the housing by pulling straight up and away from the housing. Let it lay across the engine (Photo Y). Release the snaps on this wire channel to get the red thick starter cable out for later. Pull the microfilter housing up and out.

28. Pry the caps out of the engine cover with a flathead screwdriver (Photo Z). Using a 10mm socket, remove the two (2) x 10mm screws below and remove the engine cover.

29. CAUTION: This next step involves working with gasoline. We all know how flammable it is so be extremely careful to keep all heat sources away. Some fuel will be released, so keep some shop towels handy to soak up any excess spill. Note in the pictures I removed the vacuum rail from the manifold. This is not necessary to install the TS. (I already had it removed when I took the ASA off so no point in putting it back in for this DIY.)

30. Unclip the electrical O2 sensor wires and connectors from the silver fuel rail (Photo AB).

31. Each injector has a metal clip holding the wiring harness on. Using a small screwdriver, pop this clip up on each injector. Once all six injectors are free, pull the entire wiring harness housing straight off the injectors (Photo AC). There is an extra connector for the VANOS unit at the front of the rail on a pigtail, disconnect this the same was as the injectors.

32. CAUTION: The fuel rail is still presurized and will release fuel. It can pop off at any time so be ready to control it and soak up any spills. Be EXTREMELY careful here. Obviously, again, keep ALL heat sources away. Remove the four (4) x 10mm screws holding the fuel rail down (Photo AD).

33. Slide the clips off the heads of each injector holding them into the rail. You can then pull the rail up off the injectors.

34. Remove the stock 21.7# blue top fuel injectors by pulling quick straight up and set aside. You will not reuse them.

35. Check your MAF wires. If you have 5 wires, you have MS45 software. If you have only 3, you have MS43. With MS43, you will need to remove your IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor from the center of the intake manifold and extend it. This sensor is then snapped into the pre-made hole in the supercharger intake later in the install. If you have MS45, there should be a plug pre-installed in this location.

36. Remove the two (2) x 13mm bolts from the power steering reservoir mount (Photo AE).

37. Cover the alternator with a towel (you DON'T want power steering fluid in your alternator) and remove the tank cap. Drain the reservoir into a cup and discard this fluid safely. Retain the cap as it will go on the new tank.

38. Select the smaller of the two hoses under the power steering reservoir (Photo AF). Clip the clamp with snips and then you can actually pull this hose off by hand. Drain and catch any remaining fluid.

38. Once the tank is drained, remove the other hose as well. Remove the tank from the bracket. Move the bracket to the new ESS aluminum tank. The mounting bracket holes of the bracket go on the opposite side from the hose attachment points on the tank.

39. Attach both hoses to the new ESS-supplied power steering reservoir (which is a damn fine piece of work with a built in machined diffuser in the bottom to eliminate fluid leakage from the cap, excellent!). ESS supplies a few nice brass OEM-style hose clamps from Germany. Use a flat-tip pliers to crimp the clamps onto each fitting. One connection is larger than the other and it is obvious which hose goes to which. Clamp both hoses to the tank and set the tank aside in the engine bay (Photo AG).


40. It will make a lot more room for this step if you remove the radiator fan. There are two (2) wiring plugs on the passenger side, (1) x T25 Torx screw above the plugs, and one (1) snap rivet near the overflow tank on the driver's side and the entire fan assembly slides straight up and out. This only applies to manual transmission cars. The automatic has a fan bolted to the water pump. I have never removed the automatic fan, but I do know it is *reverse* threaded, so keep that in mind when you remove it.

41. You can remove the A/C belt by hand. Press straight down on the tensioner with one palm (the small center pulley) and you can slip the belt off with the other hand.

42. Pop the dust cover off the main tensioner (left of the alternator pulley) with a small screwdriver and then put a 8mm hex wrench into the pulley's center bolt (Photo AH). I used my jack handle as a leverage bar on the hex wrench, slowly twisting clockwise, to release the belt tension and pull off the main belt. Some cars may have a 16mm bolt inside the pulley instead. The process is the same.

43. Unbolt the two (2) x 16mm mounting bolts for the alternator using a socket. The upper one holds the upper idler pulley in place, remove the dust cover to get to it (Photo AH2).

44. ESS supplies a small pre-assembled idler pulley bracket which already has the spacers zip-tied to it. It will only fit one way around the tensioner (larger pulley is the top one). Remove the zip-ties on the bolts and slide the assembly into the now-empty alternator mounting holes and tighten into place with the supplied bolts and spacers.

45. Cut the zip tie on the upper radiator hose that holds the small harness wire in place. Using a small screwdriver, unclip both ends of the upper radiator hose. Prepare to catch some coolant with a cup and remove the upper hose. Replace with suppied ESS radiator hose. It will only fit one way (Photo AI). Re-ziptie wire harness in place.


46. Disconnect the PCV hose from the valve cover by squeezing the ribbed edges and pulling (Photo AJ). Also, snip the wire tie on the O2 wiring at the back of the vacuum rail (Photo AJ2).

47. Underneath the front of the manifold, slide the fuel purge vent valve off it's rubber mount and allow it to hang free (Photo AK).

48. Disconnect the DISA valve wiring connection. It uses a metal clip just like the fuel injectors. Behind the DISA, unsnap the brake booster jet from the manifold (Photo AL).

49. Remove the engine wiring harness bracket from the driver's side of the manifold. It is held in place by two 10mm nuts. One is easy to see and get to (Photo AM), the other in not easy to see and underneath the throttle body. You will have to feel for it and remove it easily. Pull the engine wiring away from the manifold for clearance. Disconnect the wiring harnesses at the throttle body and the ICV above it.

50. Disconnect the positive battery cable feed to the starter (Photo AN) and unclip the cable from the manifold (Photo AO).

51. There is a support bracket under the manifold that is nearly impossible to see. It is attached to the engine mount underneath. The easiest way to get to it is to come up from below the car. I did my best to take a picture of it but the angle would not let the flash light it up. Remove this 16mm bolt. There is one right next to it that does not release the manifold, and if you remove it, just replace it afterwards.

52. There are eleven (11) x 11mm nuts holding the manifold to the head (Photo AP). Begin removing these being VERY careful not to drop any. You WILL reuse them.

53. Once the nuts are removed, you can pull the manifold up off the engine a little bit. There are THREE obvious connections you will find under the manifold that must be released:

* One is the knock sensor plug (unsnap it from the holder in Photo AQ).

* Another is a T25 Torx bolt holding a hose in place (unscrew and remove Photo AR).

* The last is the hose from the fuel purge valve we released in Step 47 above (pull this off).

* Then, VERY carefully, you can then remove the entire manifold from the car. Make sure you are not getting caught on any wires or hoses. This is what you will see (Photo AS).

OPTIONAL: At this time, you can make a small bend in the fuel rail supply line. ESS sent me a photo to illustrate the bend. This will make clearances behind the Twin Screw a little better (Photo AS2).


54. Remove the plastic box around the engine wiring harness you removed from the manifold. There are many little clips around the perimeter of it, slowly unlatch each one and pull the box apart (Photo AT). Seperate the ICV, MAF, and Throttle Body plugs and tape those off seperately with electrical tape. Then, tape the rest of the wires to protect them. It will kinda look like a crazy spider when you are done (Photo AU).

55. Remove the throttle body from the original manifold via four (4) x 10mm bolts (Photo AV - Red Circles). Check the sealing O-ring and put some Loctite on the four bolts to seal them. Install it on the TS intake elbow using the existing bolts. It will only fit one way.

56. Remove the Idle Control Valve (ICV) and its bracket from the original manifold using a T40 Torx bit (Photo AV - Blue Circles) and reverse the ICV's position in the mounting bracket. Then mount the ICV bracket to the underside of the TS intake elbow (Photo AW).

57. Remove the rubber insulation around the DME box by pulling straight up. Remove the twist-lock right below the rubber insulation and to the right of the cable/hose grommets by rotating 1/4 turn counter-clockwise.

58. Pull the two cable/hose grommets up from the DME box side panel and pull the panel straight up and out to remove. This will make TS installation easier by giving you more room.

59. To get even more room for the install: At the rear of the engine compartment, there is a long panel that covers the AC blower/fan. There are two T30 Torx bolt (captured so they won't fall out) and one twist-lock. Remove this if you want, it will help. For more information, check my BMW ALARM KIT install at Step 14 for better info on this panel removal.


60. Lubricate the disptick O-ring and reinstall the modified dipstick. Make sure it pops back into place.

61. Clean the intake ports on the engine with a soft towel. Do your very best to not get any dirt down in the head. Take a second to look into the intakes. I just found it amazing how skinny the valve shafts are. Amazing that they do what they do being so small! Good ole BMW!

62. Apply the supplied Loctite gasket sealer to the mating surfaces around the intake ports on the head. You are creating a airtight seal, so be sure to surround each port completely. Then, using the ESS-supplied custom intake gasket, carefully install it over the intake studs (Photo AX). For an even better seal, apply more sealer to the gasket itself around each port as well so the sealer is on both sides.

63. Move the TS assembly to the engine bay. Remove all packing materials. You will have two hoses to attach. The fuel purge vent hose and the brake booster jet. Photo AY shows the back of the TS intake: #1 is the ICV, #2 is the fuel vent, #3 is the brake booster. The fuel vent presses on to the port under the TS intake elbow @ #2 (Photo AZ). The brake booster CLAMPS to the back of the intake elbow @ #3 (Photo BA).

64. Carefully move the TS assembly into place and lower down onto the head bolts. It is fairly heavy so get a friend to help and make sure you are not pinching any wires, hoses, or lines. Make sure the fuel rail, injector wiring, cabin microfilter harness, and O2 wiring are all above it. Route the thick starter cable up through the manifold in the space between intake runners for cylinder 4 and 5 or 5 and 6 (1 is the front of the car, 6 is by the firewall).

65. Once in place, using the factory manifold nuts, tighten the manifold into place. You only need about 20-22 ft/lbs of torque, so first hand-tighten each one, then rotating through them like you would mount a wheel, tighten each one to torque spec until all are fastened good (Photo BB). Over-tightening these can pull or break the manifold bolts... that's bad.

66. Next to the bypass valve are two hose connections. On the E46, one will attach to the fuel regulator connection you pulled off the F connector (small hose) back in REMOVE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM. This connection is very important! Make sure it is tight. The other can be used for a boost gauge or other manifold pressure device. If you do not use one or both, leave them plugged tightly. The Z4 does not has vacuum-controlled pressure regulator, so really neither connection is used.

67. Lubricate the o-rings on the new ESS fuel injectors with some fresh clean engine oil (Photo BC) and install into the fuel rail.

68. Using the supplied spacers and 5mm hex bolts coated in Loctite, fasten down the fuel rail on the manifold being sure to line up each injector in it's correct hole. I cannot stress how important it is to use the ESS spacers. I have heard a few stories of people just making their own spacers since they think the injectors aren't "in far enough". The manifold is designed to let the injectors just seal at the very top. As long as the O-rings of the injectors seal against the top of manifold port, you are good. If you "pop" them down inside the manifold, they will NOT seal and you *will* get vacuum leaks. The inside of the injector ports is conical to allow for spray pattern, and again, will NOT seal the injector. Don't forget to put the injector clips back on each injector. Face the electrical plugs away from the engine.

69. Snap the injector wiring harness back onto each injector. Be very careful of alignment as you can easily push the plugs crooked and damage them causing misfire issues later. Snap all wire clips into place to lock it down. Again, any misfire issues you may get, this is the first place to check. My ASA install had one and its an easy fix to check this.

70. Reattach O2 wiring and connectors to fuel rail.

71. Pull the elbow connector off the thick PCV hose still on the OEM manifold that you disconnected back in Step 46. Install this into the long hose on the TS intake and clamp. You may have to trim this to fit, easy to do with a razor. Clamp and reattach to the valve cover port.

72. Using supplied throttle body adapter hose, attach it to the throttle body. The long hose feeds the ICV under the compressor (#5 in Photo BD). Clamp this to the intake on the ICV under the compressor. The connector (#4 in Photo BD) goes to the other hose (the larger one) you removed in REMOVE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM from the original F connector. Make sure all hose connections are TIGHT. The smallest leaks can cause irradic or rough idle and Bank Too Lean error codes at cruise/idle.

73. Move the new power steering reservoir into the original factory position. Using the supplied bolts and long spacers, mount the reservior above the TS drive snout. Be sure to put the hose relocator piece (Photo BE) into place under the front spacer. This helps keep the hose clear of the TS belt and pulley. The tank clearances are tight (less than 2mm to the snout and pulley), but you can loosen the bracket bolt and slide the reservior down in the bracket until it *almost* contacts the snout. This will put the tank in OEM position and keep the lid from making any marks in your hood liner.

74. Install the drive belts. The routing is clockwise from water pump under the ESS upper idler, around the TS, down to alternator, around lower idler, to power steering pump, left across to driveshaft pulley, loop around tensioner, then back to water pump. Install AC belt as well.

75. Install radiator fan and reconnect wiring. Top off radiator and power steering with brand new fresh fluids.

76. Route the intermanifold coolant lines under the manifold and connect to the back end tank. The upper manifold port connects to the heat exchanger line and the lower one runs to the pump intake. Depending on the kit, you may have T fitting to attach on the upper manifold hose. See diagram in (Photo BF).

77. Using either the T fitting or the upper manifold hose, slowly add a 50/50% mix of premium radiator coolant and distilled water (Photo BG). Check for leaks as you progress. Keep adding coolant until the hose tops off. Then, using a small piece of hose, fill the upper manifold port as well until it overflows. Once full, close up and clamp the hoses in place.

78. IMPORTANT! Remove the fill cap on the Twin Screw gearcase (Photo BH) with a 6mm allen. Using the supplied oil from ESS, pour all of it into the compressor. The amount is pre-measured from ESS to be correct. However, since one of my friends spilled some... You can check the oil level with a wooden dowel or similiar item. I used a wooden skewer. The oil level should be 10mm BELOW the centerline of the drive snout. You can add Castrol TWS 10W-60 Engine Oil (yes, it is BMW M3/M5 engine oil) to bring it to the proper level. If you overfill it, some will seep out of a small drain hole at the front of the snout and likely make a mess. Try not to overfill. Replace and tighten fill cap.

79. Install airbox/MAF back into factory location and tighten into place. You may have to find the right place for the coolant hoses. They will fit between the alternator and the lower airbox mounting support. This is a good time to trim the MAF/Throttle body hose to fit. Be sure all hose clamps are tight. Reconnect MAF wiring.

80. Reinstall DME box panel and rear engine AC blower shield. Reinstall starter cable, secure tightly, and close cap.

81. Reinstall DME and cover, connect battery, and turn ingition on, but DON'T START IT. Check for fuel leaks. Check to make sure intermanifold water pump is running. Add more coolant mix to the intercooler circuit upper manifold port as needed to bleed it out. The pump may make a bunch of noise when it first starts until it gets primed. Once primed (which should happen pretty quickly), it is very quiet.

82. If no evidence of fuel or coolant leaks, start the car. It will take a few seconds to stabilize idle. Check for belt clearance, loose connections, water, oil, and power steering leaks.

83. If all checks out, reinstall bumper and undertray.

84. While optional to install, I wanted to put the air dam that goes behind the kidney grilles back in. It is too long to clear the heat changer, so I cut it right at the bumper line with a Dremel to fit. It is not required, just something I wanted. It will hold in place with the rivets in the next step.

85. Reinstall air intake feed box on the radiator support and secure with the three (3) plastic push rivets (Photos BI and BJ).

86. Reinstall the microfilter box but do not tighten yet. Reinstall the wiring harness guide to the front of it.

87. Take it for a drive. Slow at first to listen for noises, check for leaks, or other any other problems. The system will build boost FAST under hard acceleration, so just take it easy during this drive. Once the engine is at operating temperature, ESS recommends retorqueing the manifold to head nuts again to adjust for the expansion of the bolts and intake connection from engine heat. If you sealed both sides of the gasket, you probably don't need to retighten them. Afterwards, you can remove the microfilter box and wiring guide, then replace the engine cover, and reinstall the box, wiring guide, filter, and filter cover.

Break-in is basically take acceleration easy for the first 100 miles or so. It will be difficult, trust me! You can go WOT pretty soon to feel what it's like, just don't keep it there very long for the first 200 miles or so. Then you should be good to go!

That's IT! You are now a Twin Screw owner! Again, note the pictures BK through BP as they are the ESS updates to the E46/Z4 kit.


Photo A

Photo B

Photo C

Photo D

Photo E

Photo F

Photo G

Photo H

Photo I

Photo J

Photo K

Photo L

Photo M

Photo N

Photo O

Photo P

Photo Q

Photo R

Photo S

Photo T

Photo U

Photo V

Photo W

Photo X

Photo Y

Photo Z

Photo AB

Photo AC

Photo AD

Photo AE

Photo AF

Photo AG

Photo AH

Photo AH2

Photo AI

Photo AJ

Photo AJ2

Photo AK

Photo AL

Photo AM

Photo AN

Photo AO

Photo AP

Photo AQ

Photo AR

Photo AS

Photo AT

Photo AU

Photo AV

Photo AW

Photo AX

Photo AY

Photo AZ

Photo BA

Photo BB

Photo BC

Photo BD

Photo BE

Photo BF

Photo BG

Photo BH

Photo BI

Photo BJ

Photo BK

Photo BL

Photo BM

Photo BN

Photo BO

Photo BP

Photo AS2


You can find the full review HERE!

  © MarvelPhx